22/06/2022
Mayank Kumar Waghela has no problem describing himself as a micromanager. The master tailor has been practising his craft since he was 14 years old and he knows that attention to detail is paramount when creating the perfect garment.
A meticulous eye helped him turn what was initially a hobby into a vocation, and by the time he was 31 his deft touch allowed him to come to Australia through the skilled migration program. Now 46, he’s since overseen the launch of two businesses – Hem Express, which specialises in alterations, and Knightsman Bespoke Tailors.
And while Knightsman stocks a range of off the rack jackets, shirts, pants, overcoats and shoes (all designed inhouse), Waghela’s true passion is making garments that are individually tailored to fit perfectly on his customers.
“When you buy something off the rack, it’s produced en masse in a factory production line,” he explains. “Even if you buy a high end brand like Tom Ford or Canali, it's not made for you – anyone can buy it. That’s why you’ll see wrinkles on a suit like that, but we make it so that the suit sits perfectly even if you have an unusual body shape.”
That requires meticulous attention to detail, and technology now plays a vital part in a business where precision laser cutters have replaced steel scissors. That’s especially true at the newly opened Norwood store, which boasts the first specialised 3D body scanner unit in Australia. In a matter of moments, this state of the art machine can take more than 700 measurements to give a precise depiction of a customer’s body.
Waghela and his tailors use that model to create a highly detailed pattern for each suit, and the 3D image also allows clients to virtually try on different fabrics and suit styles. “That means you can design your suit and see what it will look like once it’s finished instead of looking at a small piece of fabric.”
And the best thing about bespoke suits is that literally everything is up for discussion. You can choose from tens of thousands of fabrics and customise details like buttons, pockets, lapel width and size – “we can even take a photograph and use that as the lining, or get customised stitching around the buttonhole and beneath the collar.”
The last option is particularly popular with wedding parties, who make up much of Knightsman’s business and commemorate the event with initials or a date that’s only visible when they flip up the collar.
“The most important thing is that we are making a suit that’s customised just for you,” says Waghela. “So it should fit well, but it’s also a chance to show your individual style, whatever you want that to be.”
